The main road that's also very busy is Tulum (Calle de Tulum). It goes more or less North-South. Another one is Jose Lopez Portillo which goes East-West. I would recommend, if you're looking for a place to live, to look south of this street. North side is just too far. Here is an interactive map of the city. You can click and drag it around. Also you can click "View Larger Map" to open it in a new window:
View Larger Map
The downtown is basically where the main bus terminal is. This bus terminal is called ADO (which is the name of the bus company) and is located at the corner of Tulum and Uxmal (pronounced "ushmal"). If you follow Uxmal to the East from ADO (that's left on the map) you will get to Yaxchilan ("yakshilan") where you'll find many restaurants and bars. Here is how the bus station looks like:



Most of the hostels and hotels are around this area too. There is so many that I wouldn't worry about booking unless you're coming at a busy time like Christmas or New Year's eve. Otherwise, you can just walk around the small streets and look for signs. They start at about 10 US per night and that usually includes a breakfast and Internet connection.
If you look to the right of the city (on the map) you'll see a peninsula with a road called Boulevard Kukulkan. This is the hotel zone. The buses that take you there are either R1 or R2 (R stands for route). R1 goes up Tulum whereas R2 goes straight towards the west when entering the city. These particular buses run 24 hours a day.
One more thing, the city is divided into regions called Supermanzanas (SM) which are numbered. These are simply areas of the city, few blocks wide, which represent the location. Also, SMs are subdivided into manzanas. This is used for defining an address, for example, like MZ16, SM57.

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